5 of the Most Unique 3D Printer Filaments You Can Buy

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I’ve tried some cool filaments in my five years down the 3D printing rabbit hole, and it’s not just about multi-colored projects anymore. Forget black and white; users can now purchase filaments that resemble marble, wood, and metal. Oh, and don’t forget the glow-in-the-dark, color-changing, temperature-sensitive filaments. When you look at material types, you’ll see two schools of filaments: those that mimic other materials and reactive effects, including conductive and magnetic filaments.

I decided to go with single filaments that I have used in the past, all PLA that are easy to use and that any competent printer can handle. Marble, wood-fill, metallic, glow-in-the-dark, and heat-reactive color-changing filaments make up this roundup. But just because they’re all PLA doesn’t mean they react and print the same as standard PLA.

Not all PLA variants are suitable for every task. PLA is ideal for decorative rather than practical purposes due to its low heat and tensile strength. Additionally, some of these filaments are more abrasive than others, particularly those infused with other materials, which require hardened nozzles or higher temperatures. But I have to admit that it was the wood and marble PLA filaments that surprised me the most, and certainly didn’t lead to printing Pokémon dwarves for my garden.

This is my favorite PLA filament of the bunch, thanks to the clean and efficient finish produced by Marble PLA. It hides layer lines and looks like pale granite or marble from a distance, which is ideal for decorative home ornaments or garden decoration. Through experience with Elegoo Marble PLA, makeshift veins and speckled patterns on a finished print break up the uniformity of the surface, distract the eye from the layer lines, and bring out the simple geometry.

I printed a few different Pokémon using this filament to hide in the garden to look like stone features, and they look the part. This would also be ideal for printing wargaming or role-playing settings, especially castles, large buildings or mountains.

The other solution here is to buy the real McCoy, but most would settle for a 3D printed alternative once they see the price. It’s $21.99 for a 1kg roll, so printing a bed of 10-20 inch statues for a few dollars each is a bargain considering the results. Since Marbled PLA does not contain any other materials, you can handle it in the same way as regular PLA, which also makes it one of the easiest filaments to use in this item.

Wood PLA won’t print a nice pine board, but it does contain real wood fibers; approximately 20% of the filament is sawdust. This gives the prints the look, feel and smell of wood, with finished projects featuring a matte, earthy texture similar to smooth sandstone that can be sanded and stained. It’s neither plastic nor wood. It’s something in between that looks the part.

Some report that they can reproduce the natural ringing and grain effects with this filament, but this has not been the case with Elegoo wood PLA. You can imitate this when designing a project with surface textures and wooden knot patterns, like the impression of a log, for example. For the most part, users will get that clean sandstone look that makes “wood” look good when printing wooden landscapes such as cabins and forts, with the details ready for use in the STL.

For odd projects using this filament, a standard nozzle will do, but for extended use, I highly recommend purchasing a hardened steel nozzle that can withstand this abrasive filament. It’s also worth purchasing different wood inks and stains to achieve different results depending on the project. Personally, I’d go with the inks, as the majority of the material used here is plastic and not wood, which should give a more even finish.

There are two types of metal filaments: those containing real metal powders mixed with plastic, and metallic-looking silk PLA. Metal filled filament is very abrasive, so always use a hardened steel nozzle. It is also heavier and will need to be polished once used in a completed project. This filament is great for practical use, but it’s also great for ornamental projects for those willing to put in the effort.

These filaments can contain all kinds of metal powders, but copper is the easiest to work with because of its softness and low melting point. From a practical point of view, I prefer to use silk metallic colored PLA. It looks great, extrudes like normal PLA, reflects light like real metal, and is easier to finish in post-processing.

I used Elegoo’s Metallic Bronze Silk PLA, which costs a few dollars more than the marble and wood mentioned above, but the results are solid. A few years ago I wanted a copper-looking Mandalorian style gauntlet for Halloween, and this filament looked great. This project also benefited from sanding down some of the scuffs and imperfections and then going over the marks with black ink to highlight the scratches and wear, which also dulled the shine to give it a worn look. Of course, when using a resin printer for details and metallic paint, the result will not be as durable, which is a trade-off with resin 3D printers.

In my experience, glow-in-the-dark filaments can be very abrasive due to the phosphorescent additives, and many options are PLA/ABS hybrids, so use a hardened steel nozzle and check the optimal nozzle and bed temperatures before starting a project. The Elegoo PLA Glow filament I used before prints well between 190 and 230 degrees; This is based on my experience and Elegoo’s advice. I usually stick to Elegoo or Prusament filament simply because I’ve never had a problem using them, and that’s what matters.

Like most glow-in-the-dark products, they appear dull and unattractive in daylight, but if the prints are exposed to about 30 minutes of daylight, they appear at night. It’s the perfect filament for Halloween decorations; I printed out little spiders and stuck them on the walls last year, for example.

PETG light filaments, like Sunlu’s 4kg pack, tend to have lighter colors during the day but are more difficult to print. I would recommend using an enclosure or contained FDM printer for this and ABS filaments for better temperature control to reduce warping and allow solid layers to adhere. This is where the cured nozzle comes in: these filaments can be difficult to work with on their own, but with the aforementioned glow-in-the-dark additives in the mix, it’s a necessary purchase.

What about filaments that change color after printing? Well, there are two types: heat sensitive and UV sensitive. Both filaments are PLA-based, but some are available as a PLA/ABS blend, so be sure to check the recommended nozzle and bed temperatures. They both contain additives that change color when touched or in direct sunlight, and are easily the coolest filament in this item.

Heat-reactive filaments change color with the heat of a person’s hands, drinks or sunlight. This is great for cups, coasters and fidget toys for kids. The UV sensitive filament changes color after a few minutes of direct sunlight, making it ideal for ornaments or statues displayed on a windowsill, or for adding a colorful, changing touch to a hobbyist’s garden. Just check the type of nozzle you need, as even filaments advertised by PLA can be a hybrid of other materials that can be abrasive.

Personally, my favorite filament here is Marbled PLA. It’s very easy to print and gives one of the smoothest finishes I’ve seen in my five years of 3D printing; taking the time to reduce print speeds and use lower layer heights leaves a fantastic finish with little post-processing required. For a proper marble finish, add a clear gloss as a final coat to give it a nice shine.