How to get the best sound from your AV receiver

Once everything is wired up, an AV receiver is the kind of home theater equipment you shouldn’t have to think about too much. Thanks to HDMI-CEC, most systems can be powered using a TV or streaming device remote control, which should also allow you to control volume and input switching. But there has to be a lot more to it than the quick initial setup you did with your AVR, right? After all, some of these devices cost more than $5,000 and can power speakers in multiple rooms in your home or business.

Two- and three-zone configurations are up to par when looking for mid-range and high-end AVRs. These aren’t unique audio features either; they are just an alternative way of using onboard amplifiers. What we’re interested in are the sound optimizations you’ll find buried at the bottom of the deepest AVR menus. If you’re looking to get the best possible sound from your AV receiver, you’ve clicked (or tapped) the right article.

Getting the most out of your AV receiver, at least when it comes to audio, shouldn’t cost an arm and a leg. Most of the system adjustments we’ll discuss won’t require anything more than your receiver’s remote control, and the only additional products we’ll recommend are HDMI cables, speaker cables, and a subwoofer (but only if or when you can afford one). We also recommend that you keep your AVR up to date by installing any firmware updates released by the manufacturer.

Whether you opt for a Denon, Yamaha, or Sony model, each of these manufacturers includes a calibration mic with their AVRs. After connecting your speakers to the receiver, connect the mic to your receiver’s setup port, then run the Calibration Wizard to adjust speaker volume, distance, crossover settings, and more. This allows your AVR to compensate for the unique acoustics of your listening space and gives you a solid foundation to work from if you ever want to adjust levels down the line.

But let’s say you’re planning to mount your TV on the wall and you’ve decided to get rid of the speaker stands that your two front speakers lived on. Instead, you’ll place them on the entertainment center that your TV occupied. This is a great plan, but once the swap is done you’ll want to use the calibration mic again. Did you buy a brand new sofa? Use the mic again. Did you splurge on a bunch of new curtains? Use the microphone.

It’s not just an initial setup tool; Acoustics software like Sony’s Dirac Live, Audyssey, and DCAC are intended to be used whenever you make a change to any part of your home theater, whether it’s hardware, furniture, or decor. Sound waves are sensitive and any physical changes made to your theater must be taken into account. For best results, make sure the room is as quiet as possible and you won’t be interrupted for about 10 to 15 minutes.

You can literally spend thousands of dollars on home theater wiring, but that’s not a world we choose to live in. We also recommend joining us, as spending top dollar on cable technology like gold-plated connectors and silver inlays will get you to a quality ceiling pretty quickly. Only the most discerning audiophiles can hear a difference when you use ultra-luxurious cables, and even then they may be lying (they have to justify the price somehow).

Even if a big wad of cash burns a hole in your pocket, you’re better off investing it in speaker upgrades or bass traps for your subwoofer. That said, you’ll still want to invest in what you actually need for AVR connections. For HDMI cables, stick to Ultra High Speed ​​certified wires or look for a 48Gbps label. This will help ensure that your AVR, TV and AV components are all capable of transmitting Dolby Atmos and DTS:X signals.

We have a similar philosophy when it comes to speaker cables. While you don’t want to buy the cheapest reel you can find, you also don’t want to break the bank for the sake of a boutique brand. Companies like Cable Matters and Monoprice make solid wiring that you can buy in several lengths and gauges, but sticking with 16 AWG – or 14 AWG if you feel like it – is really all you need for home theater speakers.

Almost all modern AVRs come with a built-in digital-to-analog audio converter (DAC). This is one of the most important parts of your home theater system because it translates all the digital data sent from your Blu-ray player, streaming devices, gaming consoles, etc., into analog sound produced by your speakers. Although the AVR’s internal DAC is probably sufficient for most people, audio enthusiasts may want to own an AV component that has a higher quality internal DAC than the one built into their receiver.

A good example is the Panasonic DP-UB9000 4K UHD Blu-ray player, a flagship disc playback machine if ever there was one. This premium player is equipped with an audiophile-grade DAC that supports playback up to 32-bit/768kHz and has enough analog RCA ports to connect to a 7.1-channel amplifier. The UB9000’s DAC is probably superior to anything built into most entry- and mid-range AVRs; if your speakers are expressive enough, you’ll likely hear an improvement in sound quality.

Let’s be clear, again, most AV receiver DACs will be just fine for the average consumer, and probably many audiophiles as well. But if you know for a fact that a key component can do better, bypassing your AVR might be worth it.

One of the other most important parts of a home theater system is the subwoofer. These often cube-shaped speakers are designed to handle the lowest frequencies in your speaker setup, whether you’re using a 2.1, 3.1, 5.1, or 11.1.4 configuration. Audio bass (e.g. action movie explosions or 808 drops in rock, rap, or hip-hop) is not feasibly addressed by traditional passive speakers. Without a dedicated woofer, the bass has no choice but to be mixed with other channels.

Not only will an active subwoofer handle the bass frequencies, but it will also take care of the low-mids, allowing your speakers and AVR to focus on delivering the best highs and mids. For those who start without a woofer and add one later, you’ll likely notice an improvement in dialogue clarity and overall soundstage size. And as we mentioned earlier, be sure to use your AVR’s calibration mic again if you add a sub to your system in the future.

Many audiophiles claim that a dual-sub setup is even better for your theater space because two woofers are able to distribute low frequencies more evenly throughout a room. This is not, however, a necessity; The most important thing is that you have at least one subwoofer in your speaker family.

Modern AV receivers no longer rely as much on tube amplifiers as they used to. In the analog era, AVRs sometimes required a prolonged startup time to deliver maximum sound quality. Turning on your receiver a half hour or an hour before you start actively using it just isn’t necessary these days, but we can still learn a thing or two from the all-tube era.

We like the idea of ​​giving an AV receiver some warm-up time, but it doesn’t have to be more than 10 to 15 minutes. This allows all internal components of the AVR to reach normal operating temperatures. While this doesn’t result in a major change in audio quality, some home theater owners may hear a difference, especially with more detailed speakers. And if you don’t feel like waiting that long for your equipment to boot, 30 seconds to a full minute is better than nothing.

Additionally, your AVR’s warm-up time should not be “hot.” Good ventilation is essential, as AV receivers can generate a lot of heat. Do your best to keep areas above and beside the system free of clutter; the top shelf of an entertainment center or open-back AV rack is usually your best choice.